It has been an exciting build-up to the NEW peels launched by Dermaceutic this year. First up we have the Cosmo Peel Forte, a medium to deep chemical peel using a combination of 3 acids – TCA, Phenol & Glycolic Acid. This allows for a deeper TCA action which means more skin “foundation or architecture” regeneration. Phenol has always sounded scary to me, but in this case it is just the opposite! It allows for an almost pain free experience and revs up the activity substantially, which means better results in the long term. The clients however may not be as excited in the beginning stages of the after peel process. There is a fair amount of downtime when compared to the standard Cosmo Peel and the skin definitely feels more sensitive and looks somewhat scary. However, help is near in the form of Panthenol Ceutic. Launched last year, this product now makes even more sense in terms of its uses. “The Tube” as we have adeptly named it, has so much goodness in it and is exactly what the skin will need during this post peel healing period. Restoring, nourishing and antioxidants actives all round. It’ll soothe the skin and give loads of comfort to the face as the peeling process takes place. This stage is always uncomfortable as the skin becomes taut before it begins to desquamate. This treatment gives us an opportunity to work with a product that has been expertly formulated to bring about serious changes in the skin, in a controlled manner and with the least amount of discomfort to the client – especially given the ingredient combination. I love it and from the results we have seen to date, would recommend this for any client with ageing, deep lines and dull skin concerns looking for big changes and who are willing to undergo some downtime. *Just a note that this peel is not recommended for skin types IV, V & VI and anyone who smokes. Whilst a smoker’s skin would probably benefit the most from this type of treatment, you cannot afford to have your clients’ skins healing time compromised and new beautiful skin cells exposed to such negative free radical activity. This will come in the form of smoke that will be directly hitting the skin as the clients exhale.
When it comes to treating pigmentation, on any skin, the Mela Peel has without a doubt been my immediate (and favourite) go to. Dermaceutic has now upped the ante and brought out the Mela Peel Forte which as you’ve probably realised or seen is a medium depth peel with all the benefits of the standard Mela Peel BUT with the ability to now treat deeper melasma and/or dermal pigmentation. In this instance Dermaceutic have developed what we call a Jessner Peel which is a safer approach when needing to treat darker skins at a deeper level. So, with all the goodness we have experienced in the Mela Peel, we now have the added benefit of increased active ingredient formulas and a few new ingredients that have been added. Most notably, in the Activa Peel Forte we have a higher concentration of Salicylic Acid plus the new addition of Citric Acid (along with the previous antioxidants; Azelaic, Phytic & Ferulic Acids). Citric Acid will increase the overall effectiveness of the treatment as well as promote higher desquamation levels and antioxidant activity. The increased Salicylic Acid will again increase the peeling effects which improves product penetration and thus, treatment effectiveness. The Mela Peel Forte cream also has the benefit of previous additives; Kojic and Phytic Acids, Arbutin and Retinol but is improved with a higher concentration of Lactic Acid and new additions of Citric Acid & Resorcinol. Resorcinol is the clear game changer here. In addition to being a tyrosinase inhibitor it will also very importantly calm any stressed keratinocytes which means less inflammatory reaction. This is very important when dealing with melasma and melanophages (cells that ingest melanin and are very active in inflammatory pigmentation). Resorcinol also allows us to have deeper activity with this peeling process. Again, the client may not be as excited as us about this due to the increased downtime, but as always, the results are so worth it. The client will experience a fair amount of discomfort during the peel in the form of a burning or heat sensation – this will last approximately 20 minutes. They will go darker (for sure) and especially on the pigmented areas and lastly, they will peel for about 4-5 days. I am very excited about the advancement of this treatment protocol and am already seeing great results with my clients. I would recommend this treatment for any client suffering from deeper dermal pigmentation or melasma.
Both of these treatments should only be recommended to current Dermaceutic users or alternatively prepare your clients in advance with a Dermaceutic homecare routine to introduce good actives and antioxidants to the skin. Tri Vita C Serum in this case will only improve treatment effectiveness and long term results and so is a must to use beforehand and after, for both peels.